Verona, a journey among musical notes

It would be great to arrive in Verona, or simply to begin this journey, singing a beautiful song, no matter which, or simply some notes, even with a choir: this would give the right start to the day!  

But how do you become a musician? Some say it’s a special “gift” from the birth, but all agree it  is necessary to go to school and make a lot of exercise… You can begin your adventure in Verona from the most important “music school”, the Conservatorio “Evaristo Felice Dell’Abaco” which is located in Via Abramo Massalongo, 2, in the very heart of the city. It was  founded in 1878 by a nobleman who established here a “stringed instruments school” (instruments you play with a bow, like violin, viola, cello), later the school included also other musical instruments. Since 1951 the school is located in the beautiful Palazzo Giuliari, which was built on the ruins of the convent of the nearby Basilica of Santa Anastasia (XIIIth century). You cannot visit the Conservatorio, as it is a school, but you can visit the cloister: here magnificent concerts are held in summer.

Since 1964 music students have been hosted in another prestigious palace: Casa Boggian, in Stradone San Fermo 28, a famous cultural centre which hosted great musicians. Among them there were Arthur Rubinstein, Nicanor Zabaleta, Arturo Benedetti Michelangeli and many others.

A bit further ahead from the Conservatorio there is the Basilica of Santa Anastasia. It was built in 1290 on the ruins of a Gothic church, from which it took its name. Rich of very beautiful artworks, it is also called “musical church” due to its ancient organ and its bell tower (72 metres high): its first five bells begun to toll, in E flat minor, in 1460! The new nine bronze bells are in C Major scale (the biggest weights 1787 Kg!). Inside the Basilica a school bell was founded in 1776 and it is the most famous of Verona in the sound art.

(At this point you can go on or…. Go to “plan B”).

You can easily reach Piazza Francesco Viviani from Santa Anastasia through Piazza Erbe or Via Trota: in this square you will see the Teatro Nuovo. 

It was built in 1846 in elegant neoclassical style according to the architectural project of Enrico Storari. The Theatre was inaugurated with an opera which was never shown before in Verona: Attila by Giuseppe Verdi, together with the ballet “Le illusioni di un pittore”. Although the theatre was built for the opera, nevertheless since 1949 it has been used only for comedies, dramas and plays.

The beautiful palace, with its white and grey stone columns, share some spaces with small houses of the XIVth century which are located behind. The most famous is the “Terrace of Juliet”. In the Teatro Nuovo there is also an acting school for adults and children and special tickets for young people are available.

Now step towards Via Mazzini, just behind the Theatre, and ahead to Piazza Brà: after lots of beautiful shops you will see the great Roman Anphitheatre! In summer, for three months, the Arena becomes one of the biggest theatres for the opera (if you want to get more information about this monument please have a look at the itinerary “An invitation to Verona”.

Enthusiasts from all over the world book their tickets in advance not to miss these marvellous shows, which mix together music, song, dance and huge scenographies: Aida, Carmen, Turandot, Il Trovatore, they all look like a big living picture.

Even the “divine” Maria Callas begun her career in this huge amphitheatre in 1946 singing in “La Gioconda”. She was just 23, but she was “a courageous girl with an amazing voice” as Tullio Serafin reported. If you wish to provide a delightful end to your day, please find information on  www.arena.it and choose your opera!

In Piazza Brà, but opposite the Arena, with entrance in Via Roma, there is the Teatro Filarmonico. Its story is ancient:  by the mid 1500s a group of Academics had founded a centre for music and vocal studies (besides scientific and human subjects  as it was customary at the time), but only in 1700 the great scholar Scipione Maffei convinced the academy to build the Theatre (according to the project of the famous architect  Francesco Bibiena from Bologna) and the Museo Lapidario Maffeiano. They were both built next to the Sala Maffeiana, which was also dedicated to the music. Unfortunately 20 years later a fire destroyed the theatre; it was rebuilt and inaugurated in 1754. Even the young Mozart performed in this theatre between 1770 and 1772, when also a permanent orchestra was founded, the so called “Orchestra dell’Accademia”. The theatre was destroyed  once again by the bombing in 1945, and once again rebuilt at the beginning of 1970s.

The calendar of the Teatro Filarmonico is plenty of events throughout the year, especially regarding symphonic music, opera and ballet but it also offers different shows.

In the Accademia Filarmonica there is also a beautiful library  (with entrance from Via dei Mutilati, on the other side of Via Roma) which contains a precious treasure: ancient manuscripts, prints, madrigals, rare instruments, letters, drawings, discs. (Visit on reservation).

Now continue along via Roma, turn left at the first crossing and go along Via Marconi: you will find Via Teatro Ristori on your right and here you will see a small precious theatre, the Teatro Ristori, which has just been restored. 

Even Totò, Petrolini, Wanda Osiris, Gino Cervi, Walter Chiari, Roberto Benigni and many others performed on its stage. The theatre was inaugurated in 1837 and took its name from the great actress Adelaide Ristori. All kind of shows have been performed here for 150 years, but the theatre was closed in 1983 as it was no longer conformed to the new safety rules. In 2001 it was bought by Fondazione Cariverona: the bank gave the theatre back to the city after a restoration which made it modern in its technical aspects but conserving the charme and the grace of the original plan..

Now, if you are not tired, or simply, you would prefer a “Plan B”, turn behind the Basilica of Santa Anastasia, cross Ponte Pietra and reach the Teatro Romano (for information about this monument please see the itinerary “Straddling the river”).

It is a marvellous archaeological site which, during the summer, hosts a fantastic festival of music, jazz and ballet, as well as plays based on authors like Shakespeare, Goldoni and many others, both ancient and modern. There are also other fascinating performances like that of Momix. 

Anyway It is worth visiting the theatre any day during all seasons, walking among the seats in front of the stage, behind which the river Adige flows: you can imagine the ancient performances when the actors wore long draped togas, masks and shoes in order to appear more imposing.

At the end of this “journey among musical notes” walk to the nearby church Santa Maria in Organo: the Romanesque church is very ancient, dating back to the VI-VIIIth centuries A.D.  

Today only the crypt is visible as an earthquake destroyed the church, and it was rebuilt only in 1117. At the end of the XVth century Giovanni from Verona, a great carver, created the marvellous wooden intarsia (they seem to be pictures made of wooden inlays) which can still be seen in the choir of the church: some represent musical instruments, as the church has got a musical vocation. The organ, one of the most ancient in Verona, was built by Maestro Nicola in 1506; the bell tower hosts six bells which are tuned according to scale E 3. Also here there were the most rewarded “bell teams”. In 1534 the bells were already five, according to scale F#: this was the first bronze pentachord of the peninsula! 

Originally the church overlooked the water of a branch of the river Adige and just few people know that the name Santa Maria in Organo derives from an hydraulic work made by the Romans: a tower crowned with statues moving with the energy of the water of the river; at the same time the water was gently pushed among the various marble columns, which seemed to be “organ pipes” playing a melody, and turning then into fountains!

With this wonder Verona says good bye to you and looks forward to seeing you to spend another nice and funny day together…See you soon!

The Verona For Kids project of the Municipality of Verona is dedicated to those who travel with children. Visit the website to discover the other itineraries and games designed specifically for children. But it's not over: go to the Tourist Office and you'll find all that you need to go treasure hunting.